Fish River Canyon


After an early breakfast we hit the road from Luderitz to the Fish River Canyon. The first 200kms were on the main tar road which was in excellent condition. Just after we crossed the Fish River, we turned onto the C12 road at  Seeheim. OMG…. those who did not have loose fillings before this trip, sure do now. The road was horrific….to the point that we were bouncing so badly on the corrugations we all got the giggles is the car.

As per my opening epiphany regarding bounce on the road and fullness of bladder, we decided to pull into the Seeheim Hotel for a pitstop. A most fortuitous decision. As we stopped a local From Windhoek asked where we were headed, we told him to the canyon and then told us to turn back and go on an alternate (slightly longer ) route, as the C12 was virtually impassable. He got stuck and had to turn back and take the alternate route too. So we did save a massive amount of time and possible hardship. We then took the road passed the Naute Dam (or Notre Dame as Mom says!). The road was ok….not great.

After a really interesting stop at the Gondwana Roadhouse, which is an ecletic mix of all things motor antique, included Mercedes ambulances, trucks and a veritable mechanics workshop inside, We arrived at the Gondwana Canyon Lodge just after 3.30pm. Again outside looks are deceptive,   the lodge and camp were beautifully appointed- rustic, but spotless. The gardens were fantastic, the rooms were well spread out, with air conditioning. There is even a pool. Once again the quality of the food was impressive. Here the menu was a starter choice between a soup or a snack like carpaccio, aubergne rolls etc, and the mains were buffet style.

The scenery is mainly sand and boulders with the majestic Fish River canyon in the background. Each night we wandered down to the pool to watch the sunset. Too beautiful and will forever be imprinted on our brains. Our second day there, we did the drive through the canyon. It is truly a special place. From all the view points…it is amazing how huge they are, running deep and long. We had a light lunch at the Roadhouse and then siesta time.

Our last day there we took a drive to Ai-Ais (about 60km away). I was quite pleased to note that the resort is looking great. Last time I was there it was looking a bit rundown and unkempt. But it has had a facelift and looks quite good. The road in and out was ok….not as good as I remember it.

As mentioned before we have been pleasantly surprised by so many things. The friendly and helpful service, even if communication is a bit difficult at times. The staff and food at the lodges has been fanatastic. The toilet facilities at garages and stops along the way are mostly clean, if a bit old. There have been two negatives, firstly the roads- really bad in some areas. Secondly, the cellphone signal and coverage. 150 times worse than Vodacom, MTN and Cellc combined.

Today we started the journey home. We left the lodge just after 8.30am, and took the road to Ariamsvlei/Nakop border crossing. Most of this section was on a really good tar road.  We sailed through the border posts in less than half an hour for both sides. Then followed the dull and dead straight road to Upington. We arrived here just after 3pm. We are staying at a BnB on the Orange river- which is absolutey stunning, called the River Place Manor. They even do light meals on site, and we had a delicous meal here, with possobly the best malva pudding and custard that I have ever eaten.

The weather has really turned chilly, last night was the first time that we wore jackets at night, for this whole trip. We have had fantastic weather. Now, on the banks of the Orange it is freezing and we here from home that we should expect more of this. We head off to Kimberley tomorrow where are staying at the Kimberley Club Hotel. Then finally home on Sunday afternoon.

Thank you for sharing this special trip with us. I am so glad that Dad’s bucket list Namibia trip has finally happened. You can see from the pics how much they enjoyed it.

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3 comments

  1. Looks like your trip has been amazing. Drive the last thousand k’s safely.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Such a beautiful spot and amazing pictures. Will have to add it to my bucket list.

    Liked by 1 person

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