Sossusvlei and Sesriem


Thursday morning saw us up bright and early and we hit the road just after 8.30 am for Sossusvlei. Our trip started on the beautiful stretch between Swakop and Walvis Bay. Dawn you are ao right, the desert on one side of the road and the sea on the other is breathtaking.

From there it was into the Namib Naukluft park towards Sesriem. As those who have done this trip know, the scenery is breathtaking and it changes continuously. Stretches of barren nothingness, then dunes, then mountains, then nothing, then yellow and pink flowers, then rocks then flat again, it is so rugged and so hostile, but so beautiful. The roads are not in great condition, we rattled and rolled for long stretches of corrugations- clearly an after effect of some of the rains.

As is typical of the rough terrain, sand everywhere, and many cars stopped to fix punctures.  The beautiful oasis at Khomas, the different coloured mountains. So many picture opportunities, we stopped often to have a quick photo op or video the landscape. A quick pit stop at Solitaire- unfortunately they had just run out of ice cream! Then back on the road. I had been asked at the Swakop hotel to take a parcel to Sossusvlei, for a guest who had left something behind. So our next stop was the Engen garage just at the Sesriem campsite.

The parcel duly delivered and we had 30km to go to the Kulala Desert lodge. The road trip was brutal on the bones and the last 20km even more so. We arrived at the lodge at around 3.45pm. The last 10 kms or so never seemed to end…further into the heart of nothingness and you start to doubt yourself. At first glance of Kulala, it was oh oh! Tents in the middle of nowhere. But…

As we pulled in the welcome sight of Llewellyn with some ice cold ginger beer and faceclothes and the ebullient Petronella and we immediately felt better. Again, what appeared to be “rustic” was just understated blending into the environment. Tented rooms with a bathroom, big bed with mozzie nets and the views across the barren plains to the dunes. Superb.

Dinner was alfresco under the stars and was incredible. Starters, choice of two mains and desert. The food was delicious and top restaurant quality. The serving staff were brilliant and we soon made friends with all. Hilma gave Mom napkin folding lessons. These people could not do enough to cater to every when. The level of service was amazing- and has been throughout our trip, at every place we have stayed at.

Gabe, our guide for the Sossusvlei excursion gave us our briefing the night before, follwed by our wake up calls at 5am. After a quick breakfast it was off into the Sossusvlei reserve. One of the benefits (apart from view, room, food, staff) of staying at Kulala lodge is that they have a private access to the reserve, which cuts off about 45 minutes from the journey.

The first stop was foe some photos at Dune 4, then onto Big Daddy dune and the Desert Vlei. Lord am I am unfit….damn near died going up the dune, I took the shortcut to the desert vlei, only going up about 2/3 of the way. Figured that seeing as though i had climbed to the top 15 years ago, I could be forgiven. Then into Desert Vlei for some more pics.

From there, we drove to Sossusvlei proper, where we had a picnic under the trees. Gabes shared some of his local nature knowledge, customs of the Himba tribes. We made friends with a great Japanese couple, who could barely speak english. But once I should them how to air drop on the phones – we were best buds.

Back home for lunch and some r ‘n r, after the early start. Again, dinner under the stars was magical. Such beautiful memories that the 3 of us are sharing together. By 9pm at night the camp is dark and quiet, everyone is kaput! The camp is laregly eco friendly with solar powering the geysers, lights. We had buckets in the shower to catch the first burst of cold water.

On Saturday we took a drive to the very impressive Sesriem canyon, had a walk in our little camp. Our final dinner again, was superb, under a majestic milkyway.

We were sad to leave this morning and we got a cheery and vocal sendoff. I gapped it to the car as fast as I could, but Mom had some serious hugs to deal with. We also got a great packed lunch for the roadtrip.

We arrived in Luderitz just after 3pm….but more about the trip here tomorrow.. After a long day of tough driving it is time to say goodnight!

M

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5 comments

  1. Love the pics. Must say I’m having a giggle at some of the captions. πŸ™‚

    Liked by 1 person

  2. In your Sossusvlei post I mean

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  3. Shit I have just logged on to your trip now that we are back and – you took the fecking pajero ! how could you ?? –

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Please see the updated eldest child agreement , sub section7 paragraph 5 to 8 !!

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