After another good Irish breakfast, bacon, eggs, mushrooms and tomato and on the advice of the owner, I headed south west on the Ring of Kerry or the N70, as per the maps.  According to locals, the tour buses all drive in a counter clockwise direction, so it is recommended to drive the route in the opposite direction, which I duly did.

I headed through the village of Greenane to Sneem and then through Caherdaniel. As promised the scenery changed continuosly. I took a lot of ‘dashcam’ video today, so those brave enough to watch the video will get to see it. From Caherdaniel, I headed east-ish to just past Waterville, then I turned off the ring road and headed to Ballinskelligs.

The drive was challenging, with the steepest hills, sharpest bends and so many places only wide enough for one car at a time. But it was really worth it. First stop in Ballingskellig had a castle ruin on a sandback island, so because the tide was out, you could walk accross the sand and climb up the castle…great views all around. It was a chilly and windy day, but the sun was shining at least.

Back on the road to Portmagee and along the way I saw signs to the Cliffs of Kerry. I have not heard of them and they aren’t listed in my guide book, so that was a surprise. Every bit as beautiful as the Cliffs of Moher, but not as majestic. The wild blue seas crashing down below made it very different. One thing for sure, its been a very physically demanding trip. All the sights a good walk away from the car parks. No such thing as driving around having a look. So normally, you park in an allocated car park and walk to the site. The cliffs obviously have a steep climb to get to the top, but it is along well setout paths, which does make it easier.

From the top of the cliffs were majestic views of two skellig (islands), Skellig Michael (Irish: Sceilig Mhichíl), or Great Skellig (Irish: Sceilig Mhór), is the larger of the two Skellig. A  monastery was founded on the island at some point between the 6th and 8th century and was occupied until it was abandoned in the late 12th century. The remains of the monastery, and most of the island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These monasteries were really built in hard to reach places…..good forward planning to give the next generations something to discover and treasure. There are ferry trips out to the islands and in the past you have been able to walk on Skellig Michael. But apparently last Sunday there was a major rockfall, so the island is closed. That info and the howling winds and choppy seas made the decision not to take a ferry trip quite easy to make. I was vindicated when I got to Portmagee and saw that the ferry trips had been cancelled.

From Portmagee I drove to Cahersiveen and then back on to the N70 Ring road. I had another pitstop at Glenbeigh to look at the bog village that has been created. Another interesting glimpse into life in the mid 1800’s around the great famine. A copy of one of the eviction notices was posted, the landed gentry were often barbaric in their treatment of the landless serfs. Families just kicked out of their homes, with nowhere to go. Many of the Irish then headed for the American Land ( listen to Bruce’s song). Sadly, life was just as tough for them there too.

Then it was back on the road to Kenmare, via Killarney. The scenery here is incredible. With a stop at Ladies View…so named for Queen Victoria’s ladies in waiting whi stopped here to enjoy the view in 1861. A quick srop at my BnB to freshen up and then I walked into town again. Dinner at O’ Donnabhains again – this time the Shepherds  pie.

Amazing how the strangest things can trigger the strongest memories. I was walking around in a local gift shift, when I saw a  shelf of linen embroidered hankies. I had the most intense longing for Aunty Iona…made me instantly homesick. Had a nice chat with Mom and Dad, made me feel much better.

Still no leprauchans…..I am beginning to think they may be a myth🤓

Farm on the Ring of akerry

Stunning landscapes

Beach views

So many pic opportunities

Awesome

Price of diesel a

Spectacular

Along the route

A roadside laundromat

Bellinskag castle

On the cliffs of Kerry

Eviction notice