Doolin to Kenmare


I woke up to a cold and misty morning, its amazing how the weather here changes from hour to hour. Another good bantingish breakfast – not sure that the black and white pudding qualifies for banting purposes. Was sad to check out and leave Doolin today.

Again I set Daniel to avoid main roads and motorways, so the 220km trip took me 8 hours. But I had plenty of stops along the way. Thank heavens for the gps tag on the iphone, so I can go back and look where I took some of the photos. When the names are so unfamiliar to you, its hard to remember which abbey or castle or ruin was where!

My first major and quiet lengthy stop was Bunratty Castle, in Bunratty, which is between Ennis and Limerick. The castle is a 15th century tower house, restored to a large extent  by the 7th Viscount Gort. They currently have medieval feasts in the large room and have furnished some of the other rooms. Was really interesting with some hair raising circular staircases to negotiate.

Adjacent to the castle is a folk park, which has a collection of various cottages, all furnished according to period/craft themes. So there is a fishermans cottage, a small farmers cottage, a blacksmiths cottage, a poor landless peasants cottage (more like a one room abode). Then a wealthy landowners farmhouse. This was awesome as they had a ‘farmers wife’ in costume, making scones and griddle bread on an open fire in the kitchen. The guide book says a tourist trap- well this tourist loved it. Was nice to put my imagination into a visual picture. Jeez those were tough times, no bathroom underfloor heating….WTF am I saying….NO bathrooms people!  Open thatch roof  and so many people in one tiny dwelling. Unless you were wealthy, life was ruthlessly cruel.

While I walked from my car to the Bunratty castle it was freezing cold and raining,  Within an hour it was sweltering hot, drimac off, hoodie off and sweating in a t-shirt. I guess if you live here you are used to it and never leave home without a jacket and a brolly. Our weather at home is something to treasure!

Back on the road and my next stop was the village of Adare, recommended by Janeen. Too beautiful and quaint. With thatched cottages over 120 years old lining the main road. A beautiful abbey and church. So much history in all these little places along the way, I wish I had another month to explore each place.

Back on the road for the final 35kms to Kenmare, in County Kerry. The weather changed again and became misty with a continuous drizzle…..OMG….I think I just became Irish…all I talk about is the weather! Oh aye, indeed I do, aye, tis a fine night, aye it is!!,

The countryside was rugged and rough, driving past lakes and through mountain passes. Very twisty and winding, and extremely narrow roads. Mom after the second tour bus passed us…you would definitely have been dropped off at the next stop. I could almost hear you pounding the brakes and oohing!!! Am staying at a lovely BnB, called the Lodge, beautiful room and bathroom. Right over the road from the Kenmare golf course. There you go Brett, a golf course. Its about 1.5km out of town, so I packed my drimac and took a chance that the weather would be kind. Just finished my dinner at O’Donnabhains restaurant, the music is playing – good singer but not Irish folk music only, lots of covers, very enjoyable.

On the way home, popped into another pub, which had fantastic music coming put. A duo in there, the husband with guitar and voice…the wife with a harp that she made. This was fantastic, they got the crowd involved in singalongs too. (Mmmmm sounds a bit Retreatish, hey 117 and 121?).

On the radio talkshows and the tv news headlines…the following:

  1. Corrupt politicians
  2. Dishonest bankers
  3. Police brutality
  4. Police incompetence
  5. Transport pay strikes
  6. Leaving the Eurozone
  7. Housing shortages
  8. Morally bankrupt youth

Same shit, different country.

Still no leprechauns….but there is hope.

 

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3 comments

  1. I googled white pudding : “it consists of pork meat and fat, suet, bread and oatmeal formed into a large sausage” – better than a bowl of Jungle Oats I’d say.
    Seeing as you have a new found interest in the weather, our weather is sunny and clear peaking at around 20 degrees today ;-).
    It all looks really pretty and old and green. I seems that the Irish really have cottoned on to catering to the tourists, making sure there’s live singing in each pub. Just what you imagine of Ireland. What doe the rest of the economy look like? Anyone talking of tough times?

    Liked by 1 person

  2. So glad you stopped in Adare, was one of my favorites on our trip, just a pity you didn’t get to try the apple pie.

    Liked by 1 person

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